The conversation surrounding locs and dreadlocks is often nuanced, extending far beyond a simple hairstyle choice. For many, the distinction between the two terms is a matter of cultural respect, historical awareness, and personal preference.
Understanding this debate requires a look into the terminology, the physical characteristics of the hair, and the deep cultural roots that both styles share.
The Crux of the Debate: Terminology and Connotation
The most significant difference between “locs” and “dreadlocks” lies not in the hair itself, but in the words used to describe it. This linguistic distinction is central to the modern conversation.
For decades, “dreadlocks” was the standard term. However, a movement has grown to favor the term “locs” due to the negative connotations embedded in the older word.
Why the Term “Dreadlocks” Can Be Problematic
The word “dreadlocks” is believed by many to have originated from a place of judgment and fear. The prefix “dread” suggests something dreadful, frightening, or unsightly.
Historical accounts suggest that when European colonizers or others encountered these matted, rope-like strands, they viewed them with disdain, hence the term “dreadful locks.”
For those who wear the style as a symbol of beauty, spirituality, or heritage, using a word rooted in negativity can feel disrespectful and dismissive of the style’s true meaning.
The Rise of “Locs” as a Preferred Term
The term “locs” is a simple, neutral, and positive abbreviation of “dreadlocks.” It strips away the negative historical baggage.
Advocates for the term “locs” see it as a way to reclaim the narrative, celebrating the hairstyle as a natural, beautiful, and intentional choice.
It is a term of cultural pride, reflecting a modern shift towards self-definition and rejecting external, often colonial, descriptions of Black hairstyles.
Physical Differences: Cultivated vs. Natural
While the terminology debate is about language, some people also use the terms to describe two subtly different physical appearances and maintenance routines.
This distinction often separates a more polished, maintained look from a more organic, free-form style.
The Appearance of Cultivated Locs
When people refer to “locs,” they often mean a style that is meticulously maintained and cultivated. These locs typically have a uniform size and a neat, well-defined root.
Cultivated locs are often started using techniques like coiling, two-strand twists, or braiding, and are regularly maintained through retwisting or interlocking to keep the new growth neat.
The result is a tidier, more controlled aesthetic that is often preferred in professional or formal settings.
The Characteristics of Traditional Dreadlocks
In contrast, “dreadlocks,” particularly in the traditional or “freeform” sense, often refer to a style that is allowed to mat and tangle naturally with minimal manipulation.
This method results in thicker, less uniform strands that may merge together over time, giving a more organic and rugged appearance.
This freeform approach is sometimes favored by those who wish to embrace a completely natural process, often linking back to spiritual or non-conformist ideals.
Historical and Cultural Roots
Regardless of the name used, the practice of matting hair into rope-like strands is a global phenomenon with a history spanning thousands of years across numerous cultures.
It is a hairstyle that has consistently carried spiritual, political, and social weight.
The Spiritual Significance in Rastafari
The Rastafari movement in Jamaica is perhaps the most well-known modern origin of the term “dreadlocks.”
For Rastafarians, the locks are a spiritual vow, inspired by the biblical Nazarite Vow, and a symbol of rebellion against the established social order, often referred to as “Babylon.”
The term “dread” in this context can be seen as a reference to the fear or respect that the early Rastas inspired in the society that rejected them.
Locs Across Ancient Civilizations
The style predates the Rastafari movement by millennia. Evidence of locs has been found in ancient Egypt, where mummies have been recovered with their locs still intact.
In India, the style is worn by Sadhus, Hindu holy men, who often practice a form of asceticism that includes not cutting or grooming their hair, allowing it to naturally form into “Jata” (matted locks).
From the Maasai warriors of East Africa to various indigenous groups worldwide, the practice has been a consistent symbol of strength, spirituality, and identity.
Maintenance and Styling Methods
The journey of growing locs is a commitment, and the maintenance methods are what truly define the look and health of the hair.
The process moves through several stages, from the initial starter phase to the mature, fully locked stage.
Different Methods for Starting Locs
Individuals can choose from several methods to begin their loc journey. The most common include two-strand twists, comb coils, braids, and the palm-rolling technique.
The chosen method influences the size and initial appearance of the locs, but all rely on the hair’s natural tendency to interlock and mat over time.
The Role of Retwisting and Interlocking
Maintaining a neat appearance involves regular maintenance of the new growth at the root. This is typically done every 4 to 8 weeks.
Retwisting involves using a palm-rolling technique or a comb to twist the new growth into the existing loc. Interlocking uses a tool to loop the new growth through the base of the loc, creating a tighter seal.
These methods are crucial for keeping the locs separated and maintaining a clean look, particularly for those who prefer the cultivated style.
The Modern Context: Style and Acceptance
Today, locs are a celebrated and versatile hairstyle seen in all facets of life, from the runway to the boardroom. They are a powerful statement of heritage and individuality.
Despite their growing popularity, the style still faces scrutiny and prejudice in some areas, highlighting the ongoing need for cultural education and acceptance.
Conclusion: A Matter of Personal Choice and Respect
Ultimately, the choice between “locs” and “dreadlocks” is a deeply personal one. For many, “locs” is the preferred term, reflecting a positive and respectful acknowledgment of the style’s cultural significance.
For others, “dreadlocks” holds a powerful, traditional meaning, especially within the Rastafari faith, and they choose to embrace the term.
The most important takeaway is that both terms refer to a single, ancient, and beautiful hairstyle. Respecting the wearer’s preferred terminology is the key to navigating this nuanced conversation.
